Five savory whites to protect your wallet

The Memorial Day weekend provided an ample opportunity to honor America’s military heroes, especially those who’ve paid the ultimate sacrifice in defending our country in foreign wars.

A great tasting sauvignon blanc for less than $10.

At a neighbor’s cookout, I met a Lowell couple and their son who is in the military and assigned to the U.S. Naval War College in Newport. I was taken by his humility and gracefulness. He didn’t wear “military” on his sleeve nor did he promote the fact that he was serving. I had to ask him what he did for a living to learn he was in the Navy. The character of these young men and women who devote their lives to defend our freedoms is extraordinary. As the evening came to a close, I thanked him for his service and he thanked me for caring.

A delicious white wine from Portugal at a bargain price.

So what does this have to do with wine? Everything, of course. If you enjoy life, your family, your friends, your neighbors, yourself and this country, there is a time and a wine for every occasion. The holiday gave me a perfect reason to salute all those good things.
On Saturday afternoon, I went down to the pergola, put on Lee Greenwood’s classic “God Bless the U.S.A.,” and tasted a few, cool summer white wines with the my wife, the Wine Goddess, and our friend, former Sun photographer Mike Pigeon, the Wine Butler.
Several weeks ago I promised to hunt down some great bargain red and white wines that sell for $10 or less. We did the red wines several weeks ago. With help from Dick Rourke at Tutto Bene in Lowell and Steve Maciejewski at Stadium Plaza Wine & Spirits in Tewksbury, I think we’ve hit on some tasty, quality appellations that will rock any summer entertaining you might have in mind.
Here are the recommendations:
1. Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde, 2010, $8.99 — This white wine from Portugal has the look (tiny bubbles) and mouthfeel (light) of an Italian Prosecco without the effervescence. Serve it well-chilled. Sip this pleasantly mild wine, with tastes of apple and melon, as an event starter or serve it with seafood appetizers (we had tuna sushi) and goat cheese and crackers. All agreed it was fun to drink. If you served this without showing your guests the label, they would most assuredly ask what kind of wine was in the glass. According to the 2012 Wine Guide, the Aveleda Fonte is a blend of four grapes.
2. Swallow Gewurztraminer, 2008, $8.99 — From Swallow Cellars in Oregon comes this wonderfully crafted grape that fills the mouth with nice floral and fruit flavors. This wine is constructed in neither a dry or sweet style, but a perfect balance that makes it more intriguing with each sip. The producer’s tasting notes suggest “mangoes, pineapples and Asian spices.” The Wine Goddess agreed, using the description “good intensity.” I wish I had her palate. If you were thinking about trying this varietal for the first time, this is the one to give it a go. I’m sure you’ll embrace it.
3. Jean Dumont Vouvray, 2008,  $9.99 — The French gave us a wonderful gift in the Statue of Liberty and this is another at a rock-bottom price: a Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley. It is so crisp, clean, vibrant and tart that it makes you want to praise the glory of the ground where this grape was grown. A light-bodied wine with high acidic content, it will enhance fried foods, salads, and most spicy Asian dishes. My suggestion: Drink this and watch Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris. Viva la Vouvray!
4. 90+ Cellars, Lot 2, Sauvignon Blanc, 2010, $9.99 — Ninety Plus Cellars is the branchild of a Boston-based negociant who buys surplus grapes from top-quality producers and creates value wines. This sauvignon blanc hails from Marlborough, New Zealand, the home of Cloudy Bay and other sauvignon blancs that cost much more. I’ve tasted many, and this one is inseparable from the best. Think lime and herbs and exotic fruits.
5. Dr. Loosen Riesling, 2009, $9.99 — I’ve previously reviewed this German godsend from the Mosel Valley and stick to my original assessment: If you want a fruity, semi-sweet wine that goes with almost any food and every occasion, this is the one for for total enjoyment.

Wine Novice is located at lowellsun.com/winenovice. Follow Jim Campanini on Twitter @suneditor.

Two guides to peak wine performance

I hit a major milestone in my life last week, turning 60, and I found great celebration in a short four-day trip to Washington, D.C., with my twin brother John, who lives in Providence where we were born in the Italian-Irish West End neighborhood.

While we remain close, John and I are separate and distinct in so many ways that it makes us both laugh when a new medical study comes out suggesting that twins can feel each other’s pain, know when the other is in trouble.
He’s always been a New York Yankees fan; I always rooted for the Red Sox.

He enjoyed science and nature when we were young students; I liked reading comic books, sports magazines, and writing letters to sports celebrities.
He was a government administrator in Rhode Island for both Mayor Buddy Cianci and later Gov. Donald Carcieri for 30 years; I’ve worked in the private sector all my life as a journalist.
He’s a Republican; I’m an independent.

Yet we agree on a lot of things too, like wine, women and song — not necessarily in that order. John’s been married to his high school sweetheart for 35 years; I’ve been married to my soulmate for 21. Neither John nor I could be as happy as we are today without Kathleen and Mary Lee, respectively, by our sides.

We also look forward to drinking a good Brunello di Montalcino whenever there’s pasta on the menu and listening to Frank Sinatra whenever there’s a song to be sung.
So what does this have to do with wine? Nothing except that I think my big brother (he was born exactly 1 minute and 28 seconds ahead of me) is aging as perfectly as the 1946 Chateau Petrus Bordeaux. And since we are identical, I feel like I’m reaching vintage form too. Buona fortuna!

Believe it or not, I didn’t do any wine-tasting during my birthday week. Still, I didn’t slack off. I read two wine guides that I think every Wine Novice should consider to enhance their tasting and food pairing experience. Here they are:

• The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine & Food Pairing by Jaclyn Stuart and Jeanette Hurt, $16.95 — For the price of a 2009 Louis V. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, you get 231 pages of easy-to-read information on all the wine basics, including how to taste wine, how to taste food, the main aromas of wine, and what it all means.  Every page is stocked with an educational tip box. For instance, “More wines are ruined by being served too warm than too cold. Your wine will always warm up in the glass. Err on the chilly side.”
The book lists the major red and white grape varietals and provides the region where it is best produced; the wine body type (light, medium, full); alcohol level; acidity; sweetness level; common aromas (green apple, peach, almond, lemon, etc.) and what it is best paired with (Example: Sauvignon blanc — salty and tart cheeses; herbal dishes, especially those with cilantro; raw tomoatoes; salads; garlic; vegetables).
There’s a section on how to read labels and what to do in a restaurant if you get a bad bottle of wine. What I liked most, however, was the comprehensive wine-food pairing lists that can come in handy for quick entertaining or for planning a formal dinner.

• Food & Wine’s 2012 Wine Guide, $12.95 — This is a nifty compendium of all the top wine producers, vineyards and labels from across the globe. It features an index to locate more than 1,000 favorite wines, breaking them down by light-, medium- or full-bodied. The guide covers 13 wine-producing nations by region and offers suggestions on the best products by price. There are sections on wine terms — cur, cuvee, dry, earthy, lees, etc. — and food pairings. I found the chapters on Champagne and Dessert wines to be fascinating. You can stick this guide in your back pocket, take it to any wine store and have field day hunting down its suggestions.

Wine Novice is located at lowellsun.com/winenovice. Follow Jim Campanini on Twitter @suneditor.

Save your ‘green’ on these bargain reds

Redtree Pinot Noir makes its case at $8.99 a bottle

The June 2012 issue of Wine Enthusiast features an attention-grabbing story on the cover: “30 Great Napa Cabs for $30 or Less.” If you like cabernet, it’s a must read. Most of the wines are rated 88 points or higher. Still, you can find less expensive cabs that fit right in with WE’s selections for a lot less. Two that I mentioned weeks ago come to mind: 2009 Liberty School Cabernet and 2009 Louis Martini. Both sell for less than $15 and are universally rat in the 88-89 point range. But why should ratings matter? It’s what you like that matters.

On that theme, I’ve asked two local wine dealers to stake their reputations on the best quality wines in their stores for $10 or less. I wanted a list of four each from Dick Rourke at Tutto Bene Wine and Cheese Cellar in Lowell and Steve Maciejewski of Stadium Plaza Wine & Spirits in Tewksbury. I picked two myself, giving us a total of 10. There are 5 whites and 5 reds. Today, we are going to deal with the wines of color.

Now while my “sommeliers” have many good bargain wines in their stores, yellow tail and others come to mind, they told me their choices were based on quality of grape, taste and enjoyment of summer fare. In full disclosure, I purchased the wines and held my own personal wine tasting with the Wine Goddess, my wife Mary Lee. I did not look up any previous reviews of these wines or search for ratings. This was strictly adventure. Here we go:

1. Le Drunk Rooster, 2008, France — The rooster on the purple label certainly had something to crow about with this dark purple, Grenache (65%) and Syrah (35%) blend. While not overly aromatic, I detected minerals and chocolate on the nose. The taste was smooth and full of berries with a long, spicy finish. The WG declared the finish was bigger than the price ($9.99) and well worth it. Stadium Plaza.

2. Red Guitar Sangria, Constellation Wines, N.Y. — We drank this cherry and full fruit concoction over ice, although the bottle says it should be well-chilled. If it mattered, the taste didn’t show it. A great leisurely sipper, there were plenty of flavors in this bottle, from lime and lemon to cherry, and you could have fun putting your tastebuds to work. But why bother? An ideal companion for summer fiestas at $8 a bottle. Tutto Bene.

Le Drunk Rooster from France tastes bigger than its price ($9.99).

3. Campos Reales, 2011, Spain — If you’ve never tasted a Spanish wine, this is a good one to start the global experience. The Tempranillo grape, used in wine blends with Granacha, is becoming more popular around the world and this stands well on its own. Its medium bodied with blackberry and plum aromas. I enjoyed this with leftover chicken saltimbocca. Smooth tannins and warm, mouth-pleasing dry taste. Solid value at $9. Tutto Bene.

4. Line 39 Cabernet Sauvingon, 2011, Calif. — Wow! Why pay $30 when you can have this dark, luscious Central Coast appellation for $9.99! This is very drinkable now. It’s full bodied like all the big Cabs and supports solid plum and licorice flavors. The WG thought it was smoother than most young cabs, and ruled it delightful for the price. I say it is a steal of a deal! Stadium Plaza.

5. Redtree, Pinot Noir, 2010, Calif. — Interesting to note that this Pinot and the above Cabernet are both produced in St. Helena by the successful Cecchetti Wine Co. Like I said before, if the grapes are quality and the fruit is at the height of its ripeness, you can sell it in a tuna can and people will buy it. For $8.99, Redtree has the ripe cherry and strawberry aromas and flavors that are deliciously expected and appreciated. While a bit thin on the finish, this wine is consistently good solo or with light meals. Tutto Bene.

If you like white wines, don’t despair. I’ve got five on the table for review for next week’s column. Remember, the key to a good wine experience  is what’s in the bottle, not on the price tag. You should always be willing to toast to a good bargain. Salute!

Meditrina, a new wine love of loves

Meditrina, the Roman Goddess of Health and Wine, is the name of a heavenly red blend from Oregon.

Newsroom budgets and not bottles have consumed most of my time lately, although I did get to taste five wines in the Pergola over the weekend.
While the Wine Goddess did her thing in the garden, I studied the grape of the gods with cool detachment. I told her this was work. She shouted something unintelligible.
Several weeks ago during a buying binge, I purchased red blends Meditrina and Pillar Box Red, Spy Valley Pinot Noir and Hogue Riesling. Here are my findings.
Meditrina is the name of the Roman goddess of Wine and Health, and a glass of this a day will keep … Well, you know how that goes and it’s true. The wine is blended at the Sokol Blosser Winery in Dayton, Ore., from three grapes, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. Meditrina first hit the market in 2005 and has to be getting better, because I enjoyed a wonderful mouthfeel and balance from this luscious juice. While no one grape overpowers the other, the Zin factor makes a vibrant point on the finish. I starting singing, “I just kissed a girl named Meditrina.” It’s 14.99 at Costco.
Pillar Box Red is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from South Australia and packs a bit more punch than Meditrina. This blend had a lot going on from blueberry and minty aromas to delicious black fruit and subtle oaky tastes on the palate. A silky finish made this a great sipper. The price is $16.69 at Costco.
Hogue Late Harvest Riesling was a pleasant diversion, a very aromatic white that had me thinking smooth citrus blends. I had to call in the Wine Goddess for a sniff, and she told me it was apricot, tangerine, peach … How does she do it? The wine was a bit sweet for me but she loved the cool, refreshing taste. From Columbia Valley, WA., Hogue puts a “sweet meter” on the back label of each bottle which is great for consumer tastes. Next time I’ll try the semi-dry version, but at $9.99 a bottle this is a great match for spicy cuisine, especially Indian and Thai dishes.
Spy Valley Pinot Noir is made in Marlborough, New Zealand, a region made famous for its sauvignon blancs. But they can craft reds of distinction too, as this Pinot Noir attests. Great deep cherry color and, naturally, a robust cherry aroma hits the nose with hints of a complex character. The Wine Goddess, called in a second time, said “licorice.” Does she make these things up? I don’t think so. I have a nose for news; she has one for wine. Go figure. Anyway, she thoroughly rated this one of her top Pinots; I found it enjoyable. It was a bit pricey at $22.99 a bottle at the N.H. Liquor Store, including a $2 discount. Don’t pay anything more.
The crowning moment came at Sunday dinner, when we cracked open a 2009 Sterling Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that we brought back from our trip to Napa Valley last October. This was a stunning experience. We grilled two thick steaks on the grill, baked two potatoes and made a wedge salad. The deep purple wine sat in a decanter for 30 minutes when the food hit the table. Pow! The Cab is big, bold and delicious and layered with very intense wild berry flavors. I even picked up some chocolate. According to the winemaker, the Cab is aged in French oak barrels for 18 months and blended with small amounts of Merlot and Petit Verdot. This was truly elegant. The Wine Goddess had little to say except, “When are we going back to Napa.”
Unfortunately, Sterling Vineyard’s Diamond Mountain Cab is rarely sold in local stores and must be purchased online. It retails for $65 a bottle. It’s worth finding for a special occasion.
NEXT WEEK: The best of the bottom of the barrel bargains in wine today.
Wine Novice is located at lowellsun.com/winenovice. Follow Jim Campanini on Twitter @suneditor.

Wine Deals of the Week

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc is a great buy at $14.99 when compared to pricier, more well-known brands like Cloudy Bay.

WINE PICKS OF THE WEEK: Go to Costco in New Hampshire and check out the Eroica Riesling from Washington State. This is a 92-point rated wine (Wine Enthusiast) selling for $16.69. Its orange aromas and clean, semi-dry taste will transport you to a resort island, where you’ll pine for scallops and crab or maybe a nice spicy Asian dish. It’s a leisurely sipper too.

Another Costco find is a 2011 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc at $14.99. This same brand was on sale at N.H. State Liquor outlets for $17.99 several weeks ago, and now you can get an additional $3 off. Crawford’s wine comes from Marlborough, New Zealand, the same location where the pricier Cloudy Bay is produced. By why pay more for the same quality taste: clean and fresh and full of tangerine aromas and citrusy tastes. Try this with pan-seared scallops, baked haddock and other white fish. Or sip it.

My third pick is Troublemaker, a red blend that is so ripe in fresh fruit and velvety dry on the finish that you’ll swear you were drinking a $50 bottle. When I sampled this wine from Paso Robles a month ago, it sold for $14.99. Unfortunately, it’s gaining a reputation. The price has climbed to $18.99 and you should load up before the next increase. It’s available at Tutto Bene in downtown Lowell.

Finally, there are many good bargain wines below $12. They contain quality juice and are made expertly by top wine-producers. I’m going on the hunt this weekend, following up on a list I’ve been compiling for weeks now. I’ll share this list with you next week. Do you have any you want to share?
See the new Wine Novice video at lowellsun.com/winenovice and follow Jim Campanini on Twitter @suneditor.